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Stitch Class


Loops or loops of one or more threads when connected by interlacing, interlocking, intralooping or any combination during sewing. Then every unit of this kind of structure (Seam) is called a level.


Passing of a loop of thread through another loop formed by the different threads.


Passing through another loop of a thread created by the same thread.


Passing of a thread over or around a different thread or loop.

Stitch Types

There are 70 different types of stitches. Of these, 18 to 20 stitch forms are commonly used in the garment industry.
Stitches are broken down into 6 classes: 
  1. Stitch class-100 (Single Needle Chain Stitch) 
  2. Class stitch-200 (Hand Stitch) 
  3. Class-300 Stitch (lock stitch) 
  4. Stitch class-400 (Multithread Stitch Chain) 
  5. Stitch class-500 (Stitch Over Edge) 
  6. Stitch class-600 (Covering Stitch Chain)

Stitch Class 100 (Single Needle Chain Stitch)

Intralooping forms this class of stitches.
One or more needle threads are used to form stitches.
The needle passes a thread through the fabric and a loop is prepared which is connected with the previous loop made of the same needle. The line of the stitch is rendered in this way.
This stitch form includes the type-101, 103, etc.


Used in the positioning of lap and flap, temporary joining, positioning, basting, hemming, blind stitching, holing of buttons, button attachment.

The drawbacks: 

Stitch health is very weak. If you pull one end of the thread, then the entire sewing will open.

Stitch Class 103 (Blind Stitch)

This stitching style is clearly seen from the back but not from the front. Uses primarily holing keys, adding buttons, hemming.
This stitch isn't long-lasting.

Stitch Class 200 (Hand Stitch)

This stitch class looks like a home-made hand stitch.
It is crafted from a special type of needle and sewing machine which is called a sewing machine pick stitch.
The needle thread is moved through the fabric from one hand to another and creates a sewn line.

Applications :

Mostly used in the lapel of jacket, coat and expensive clothes.
Stitch type-209 is always used for the edge of the jacket.

Disadvantages : 

Time-consuming operation.
Higher cost.
The speed of sewing is very slow.
Rare in use.

Stitch Class 300 (Lock Stitch)

Two or more thread sets are used in this stitch class.
One thread is called a needle thread and another thread is called a bobbin thread.
Here, one set of threads is interlaced with another set of threads and a bond is made.
Fine yarn is preferable for this kind of stitching.
Type 301 stitch is the most common stitch in the 300 class.
General purposes include sewing, joining different components during garments making, topstitching, etc.


Widely used in sewing and stitching for pocket, bracelet, scarf, face, etc. Which is used in top-stitching, button-hole, a button fastening, blind stitching, etc. 
Stitch type 304 is zigzag form, used for fastening lace, elastic and so on.


Strong stitches, higher strength, and functionality.
Both sides of this stitch look the same.
More stable stitch than chain stitch.


The main issue with the lock stitch is that the lesser capability of the bobbin thread involves a frequent change of the bobbin thread.
Not suitable for knit sewing of fabric.

Stitch Class 400 (Multi Thread Chain Stitch)

Stitches are created by two or more threads.
One thread is called the needle thread, and another thread is called the looper thread.
The loop of one thread is passed through the fabric and connected to another thread formed by interlacing and interlacing.
Stitch type 401 is the most common in the 400 range.
The front of the stitch looks like a lock stitch, and the back of the stitch looks like a double thread.
Sometimes this form of chain stitch is called a double locked stitch, since one needle thread is bound with two lower thread loops.




Stitch type-401 is used for long stitching in jeans and pants. That form of the stitch is also used with a stitch over the bottom.
Stitch type-406,407 is used to tie a ribbon, a braid, an elastic with a sweater.


The power of 401 is greater than 301.
Less possibility of producing seam puckers.
Extensibility is exactly the same as the Lock stitch.
Chain stitches can be made by a comparatively lower thread tension so that these stitch groups are created at a high speed.
The SPM of the chain stitch machine is 8000, the SPM of the lock stitch machine is 6000.


Lower resistance to run back and raise the bulk underneath the surface.

Stitch Class 500 (Over Edge Stitch)

Each type of stitch is created by one or more thread sets and bound by the minimum loops of one thread set by rotating the edge of the fabric. As a consequence, the thread can not be extended from the edge of the cloth.
» Before stitching, the edge of the fabric is cleaned by the knife of the machine which is positioned at the front of the needle.
It's sometimes called over the locking tool, but it's mostly over the edge stitch.
The width of the stitch may vary from 3 mm to 5 mm. » The stitch type-504 is the most common. Stitch type-503, 512, 514 have also been classified in this group.


Stitch type-504 is used to decorate the end of the fabric.
It is also used in conjunction with a ring stitch and a chain stitch.
Soft fabric stitch type-512 is used.
For coarse fabrics such as denim, jeans, cord stitch type-514 is used.


Extensibility is higher (up to 30%).


This style of a stitch is susceptible to seam grinning (the threads are exposed when the seam is drawn at right angles to the stitching line).
Due to the complexity of the seam construction, the finish may be somewhat thick.

Stitch Class 600 (Covering Chain Stitch)

Stitches under 600 are made up of three sets of threads.
The first thread set is called the needle thread, the second thread set is called the top thread cover thread, and the third thread set is called the bottom thread cover thread.
Stitch type-602 is the most common type.


Stitch type-602 is used for the fastening of thread, lace, braid, elastic to the knit fabric.
Stitch type-606 is used to make knit underwear. This is also used for decorative purposes.
To render the cover stitch, the top-stitching on the bottom of the fabric is also used.


Stitches in this category are very complicated and may require up to 9 threads.

Merits and Demerits of Stitch Class 301 


Nearly 30 percent of seam extensibility.
Seam strength is necessary.
Similar appearance on both sides of the fabric.
Additional stitches are secured and security can be increased by retrieval.
Approximately Abrasion resistance is higher.


Lower capacity bobbin thread requires frequent bobbin change of thread.

Merits of Stitch Class 304

Kind of zig-zag.
It is used for lace or elastic adhesion to clothes.
Extensibility is relatively higher than the stitch type-301.

Difference between Chain Stitch and Lock Stitch

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